Galderma’s Next Act: From Collagen to Liquid Toxins, a Swiss Aesthetics Giant Bets on Growth

Galderma rides the GLP-1 “face” wave, bets on Relfydess launch and China expansion to take share from AbbVie in aesthetics.

Beauty Procedure

Galderma has always sold confidence in a bottle. Now, freshly public and riding a new wave of demand, the Swiss dermatology specialist is trying to turn that into compounding growth. The company sits at the crossroads of vanity and medicine—hyaluronic-acid fillers, collagen stimulators, neuromodulators and post-procedure skincare—and its pitch is simple: win share by innovating faster and educating the market better than anyone else.

The backdrop is favorable. Injectable aesthetics are expanding as procedures become more routine, appointment times shorter and the customer base broader. U.S. injectables alone were roughly a $4 billion market in 2024 and are projected to grow at a low-double-digit clip through decade’s end. That growth is reinforced by a powerful, if unexpected, tailwind: the “GLP-1 face” phenomenon, in which rapid weight-loss drugs leave some patients with volume loss and skin laxity. Galderma’s portfolio happens to be built for that moment—Sculptra, its poly-L-lactic acid collagen stimulator, and Restylane fillers are being positioned as a one-two solution to restore structure and refine contours after weight loss.

A year after its March 2024 listing in Zurich—the biggest global IPO of the first quarter—Galderma has financial momentum to match the clinical story. Net sales reached $4.41 billion in 2024, up roughly 9% at constant currency, and Core EBITDA crossed $1.0 billion as margins hovered in the low-20s. The stock market debut valued the company near 15 billion Swiss francs and broadened its investor base beyond the private-equity consortium that acquired it from Nestlé in 2019. Management says the stronger balance sheet is there to fund launches and pipeline expansion.

What Galderma is really selling, though, is a system. The company fields roughly 2,200 representatives and trains more than 100,000 physicians a year. That education flywheel is crucial because technique determines outcomes—and satisfied injectors become repeat buyers. It also explains how Galderma believes it can keep taking share in its two most important markets, the U.S. and China, even against AbbVie’s Botox juggernaut. Management pegs the category as a de-facto duopoly and thinks its share can still rise; the plan is to meet doctors where they are, simplify procedures and expand indications.

China is the second engine. Under Nestlé, the business was little more than a placeholder; the real build-out began only three years ago. Despite consumer softness, Galderma says growth is holding up, and it is layering in peri-procedural skincare to create a more integrated offering. A recent launch of Alastin in China is meant to standardize pre- and post-treatment routines in clinics, a move that can raise both satisfaction and spend.

On the product side, management’s message is “gain share through innovation.” Sculptra, the collagen stimulator, is the fastest-growing product in the portfolio, buoyed by the GLP-1 tailwind and refreshed injection protocols that addressed the nodules and discomfort seen years ago when the molecule was used very differently. Restylane continues to spawn new indications and gel properties—softer or firmer, more flexible or more defining—tailored to specific facial areas. The company also sees “body” applications as the next frontier, a natural adjacency as materials and techniques improve.

The most strategically important launch is Relfydess, Galderma’s ready-to-use liquid botulinum toxin A (relabotulinumtoxinA). In pivotal studies, the formulation showed strong efficacy with long duration when treating frown lines and crow’s feet simultaneously. The convenience angle is obvious: unlike powders that require in-office reconstitution and can take days to show effect, a stable liquid can simplify logistics and speed onset—advantages that matter in high-throughput clinics. The regulatory path hasn’t been perfectly linear—the FDA issued a chemistry and manufacturing questions letter in 2023—but subsequent phase-III readouts were positive, and management is preparing a U.S. debut. Crucially, Relfydess will be manufactured in-house, improving economics over Dysport, the legacy neuromodulator Galderma commercializes under a long-standing partnership with Ipsen. Galderma says it will maintain that relationship even as Relfydess scales.

The revenue model blends premium brands with procedural leverage. In injectables, product cost is a fraction of the price patients pay for the procedure, and most neuromodulator supply sits in Europe, where scale can translate into pricing power. Layered on top is skincare—Cetaphil for mass channels and Alastin for peri-procedural care—that deepens relationships with physicians and consumers while smoothing category cyclicality. The brand roster—from Restylane and Sculptra to Cetaphil—gives Galderma multiple entry points into practices and homes.

What makes Galderma more than an aesthetics pure play is nemolizumab, its monoclonal antibody targeting the interleukin-31 receptor. The drug has shown compelling results in reducing itch in prurigo nodularis and atopic dermatitis—two debilitating dermatological conditions with limited treatment options. Phase III data demonstrated rapid and durable itch relief, with meaningful improvements in quality of life. Analysts view it as a potential blockbuster with peak sales north of USD 2bn and applications across multiple pruritic diseases, including chronic kidney disease-associated pruritus and cholestatic liver disease. If approved broadly, nemolizumab could reposition Galderma as a serious immuno-dermatology player, giving it a second growth pillar alongside aesthetics. That diversification matters: it softens exposure to consumer cycles, while positioning Galderma in the higher-value, specialty pharma segment of dermatology.

For investors, the case rests on three questions. First, does the GLP-1 effect prove durable? If weight-loss drugs expand to broader populations at lower costs, aesthetics could see sustained incremental demand—management talks about mid-single-digit market growth with an extra push from post-weight-loss volume restoration. Second, can Galderma execute on launches while protecting margins? The company signaled healthy profitability even as it reinvested behind new products in early 2025; if Relfydess ramps on schedule, mix should improve further. Third, can China become a true second pillar rather than a nice-to-have? Early signs are encouraging, but cluttered competition and macro volatility are real constraints.

The risks are straightforward. Aesthetic medicine is reputationally fragile; safety signals or social-media blowups can cool demand quickly. Competitive intensity is rising as rivals push longer-lasting toxins and novel gel chemistries, and AbbVie remains a formidable incumbent with Botox and an enormous injector network. Regulatory timing can slip, as Galderma itself learned with its liquid toxin. And while training armies of physicians is a moat, it’s also a perpetual expense that must keep pace with the industry’s growth.

Still, Galderma’s playbook—innovate, simplify, educate—fits the market’s direction. If the company converts its pipeline of twelve clinical programs, lands Relfydess on time, and continues to compound share in the U.S. and China, the result is a sturdier, higher-margin franchise than the one that came to market last year. In an industry where technique, trust and time-to-result decide repeat purchases, Galderma is trying to make the injector’s job easier and the patient’s outcome more predictable. That is a business proposition the market tends to reward.

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QMoat
QMoat

Investment manager, forged by many market cycles. Learned a lasting lesson: real wealth comes from owning businesses with enduring competitive advantages. At Qmoat.com I share my ideas.

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